Christmas Morning in Panama

Usually, we get up, fix breakfast and open presents.

Somehow, this has lost it's appeal and magic for us...we have everything we want or need...so we decided to skip the present exchange.

Instead we purchased toys at the Dollar store. Yella wrapped them. Other friends also bought these small presents and wrapped them. 700 presents in all!

We met at Dorado Park restaurant and we headed out to the Indigenous compounds to give away presents to the children.

The Indigenous people are migrant workers who are down from the jungle hills to pick coffee. They have almost nothing. They die before 40 years of age from lung diseases caused by burning fires in the sheds with no ventilation. And they have hordes of children.

As we pull into a compound, kids peak out from doorways, shy and timid. Then the first present is pulled out of our bags and the dam is breached!

Kids stream out of the doorways, accompanied by their parents.

We have trouble managing the throng!

It is similar to feeding frenzy for fish off a dock.

Many of these children have never received a gift. Intuitively they know what it is though!

Big grins. Vibrating in place. Jumping up and down like pogo sticks.

And every now and then, a child who never smiles. You wonder what happened to this child. These kids make you want to weep. And try harder to get just a little smile...

Many of the kids double and triple dip but who cares. Then you see a small boy get 2 balls and give one to his brother. Yella tried to give on boy a second ball and he gave the first one back.

Many heart warming moments. And a sense of Christmas giving bigger than the volcano.

Now we are off to a Christmas dinner pot luck with some very special friends.

I think it is a very good Christmas.

Christmas Traditions

I'm a sucker for Christmas.

I have enjoyed the holiday season so much, starting with Thanksgiving going through Christmas, that winter was tolerable.

One of the best parts was cooking holiday dinners...turkey, stuffing, and all the rest...with my daughter.

I don't know how it started but it started when she was just a little girl. Anyone is old enough to break the bread apart for the dressing!

All of this solved a problem. In the early 80's I got sober. Having spent my previous holidays pleasantly inebriated, well many times not so pleasantly drunk, I didn't know how to enjoy leisure time sober.

So I fled to the kitchen and hid out most of the day. Hey, it gave me something to do, and in a strange way, I felt part of the merriment...from the safety of the kitchen.

My daughter joined me in the kitchen as my helper.

When you are out of sorts, awkward and uncomfortable in your own skin, a little kindness goes a long way.

I don't know how she knew I needed this but she did. And for that I will always be grateful.

Every year when I cook, she comes to mind...even though we are 2000 miles apart.

I am cooking 2 days early this year. So much to do with our band playing tonight, parties tomorrow and a wonderful pot luck Christmas dinner on Sunday.

The most traditional Christmas music is playing, glorious holiday cooking smells permeate the house...

With fond memories of Christmas past.

I called my daughter a few minutes ago and shared my cooking via Skype.

It is the same...in the heart.

Peace on Earth.

Someone Called the Police

It is not good to fight with Panamanians!

You will lose.

There once was a restaurant called Culturas. The owner entered into a dispute with a Panamanian neighbor about parking on the street. The place is NO more.

There once was a restaurant called Amigos. It was a favorite but it lost it's lease and had to shut down. The owner would get drunk and fight with the landlord...physically. So, the lease was not offered to Amigos for renewal.

The owner of Amigos found another location in a residential neighborhood. He spent way too much money renovating it, then it opened.

Bands were hired to play music, mainly rock and roll.

We have played there twice in the last week. Last night the police came to register a complaint about the noise. We are a rock and roll band after all and the bar is open on three sides.

In spite of the warning, we continued to play...as requested by the owner.

The longevity of this place will be short. It doesn't pay to fight with Panamanians.

Even though this is a polite, soft culture, they find ways to assert there will. And it is a passive aggressive society so you don't see it coming until it knocks you to the ground.

There is almost no violence against a person. Rare. But it does happen in a few circumstances. Like cheating a Panamanian out of money. Or committing adultery. That is, a gringo cheating on a Panamanian.

As an aside, adultery is rampant in Panama among Panamanians, probably the result of the Catholic church's stand agains divorce.

They have motels called a "Push" where you can rent a room by the hour. With multigenerational families in over crowded homes, it is necessary for married couples to seek privacy in a Push.

But it is as common to take someone "not your spouse" to a Push for a little fling!

It is so important to learn the culture when living in a foreign land.

David!

Panama giveth and Panama taketh away.

Today, Panama giveth!

I have needed to go to the thriving metropolis of David for a couple of weeks. David is the second largest city in Panama at about 125,000 people.

The roads in David are so confusing that it takes about 12 trips to even start to get your bearings. And then about 3 more years to get it down.

But David has about everything.

I needed some shorts so off I went to Ropa American, a second hand clothing store in the heart of the most confusing market district of David. Stop and go traffic, people shooting out into the street--hordes of them in no discernible pattern--taxis darting into the road, and on and on it goes.

But it is so much fun! Vibrant and alive!

I had about 6 stops, all worked out.

Unheard off!

I was back in Boquete in 2 and half hours. Then I stopped at a travel agency and got airline tickets for some friends, then I randomly stopped into a barber shop and got a haircut...all in 30 minutes.

Wow!

Panama giveth today.

I am off in a few minutes to a Christmas show to watch Yella and my friends sing and play Christmas music.

The Christmas spirit is in the air...literally with the music.

Oh, and I had a 20 minute conversation, in Spanish, with my neighbor. This is the guy that hates gringos. He has good reasons to hate us too.

He has been a project for me trying to win him over and I think I might be there. I understand maybe 20% of what he says but it is enough for him to feel we are now friends.

These are the victories that make life sweet.

He told me how important it is for neighbors (vecinos in Spanish) to cooperate and get along.

I agree whole heartedly.

Ah, a good day!

Tuesday Market & Meeting

I've mentioned this weekly event in the past.

Each Tuesday morning at 9 am, a couple of dozen venders--mainly ExPats--set up tables at the Boquete Community Theater And Event Center. This great facility was created from a defunct bar and now has a 112 seat theater, a large lobby and a good size meeting room.

The facility was remodeled mainly with volunteer labor, tons of labor, and it was a labor of love!

Now it has a bustling market every week as well as plays and concerts several times a year.

This morning it was buzzing.

Yella was on one side playing her Christmas CD and trying to sell a few. The Day brothers were set up on the other side playing Christmas music live to promote their Christmas concert tomorrow.

Baked goods, soups and fresh bread were wafting through the air! All sorts of craft jewelry, pottery and artwork was available too.

Christmas was in the air!

When we arrived in Panama 3 years ago, I knew at least half of the people at these events. Now I don't event know 1 out of 10 people.

That is how many new people are here. It is amazing. Who knew?

With all of this activity...me wearing shorts and sandals...I forget that it is now cold in the US in most places. I forget that there is a thing called winter. I forget about driving in the snow and ice, scurrying from the car to the house or work or shops. The mad crowds in shopping malls.

I love the fresh air 365 days a year, the limited shopping, people with enough time on their hands to stop and talk, unhurriedly.

I do love it here!

As I re-read this blog, I realize how woefully inadequate this blog describes what is happening here today. This is a magical place. Most people that come visit see and feel it.

Living in a place like this is such a privilege.

Goodbye to Henry & Tammy

Henry and Tammy started a restaurant called, strange enough, Tammy's.

It was one of our favorites. Specializing in Mid Eastern cuisine.

They also had a Thursday night open mic and became one of the music forces in the community. Henry was a professional drummer for 10 years in New York.

Tammy was Israeli and drop dead gorgeous. Yella tells me that Henry was her equal in the looks department.

They got worn down by the rigors of the restaurant business and sold it last summer.

Now they are leaving. They will be missed.

Tammy and the kids are already gone. But Henry remains until Wednesday.

Henry gave us a big dose of why he is so much fun Saturday night.

We were at Las Ruinas listening to a new band. The drummer had purchased Henry's drums.

During a break, Yella was talking to Henry, who was, how shall I say it, one card short of a full deck by this time. He said he was going to play a drum solo during the break...and he was kidding, of course.

So Yella double dog dared him.

And up he went. Played an unannounced, spontaneous drum solo. Very spirited, very LOUD.

Then he stumbled back to our table.

Now that's unusual.

We will miss them...for their food and their spontaneity.

Health Care

Warning: This blog may be inflammatory to some.

One of the big reasons we live in a 3rd World Nation is the massive reduction in the cost of health care...without any loss of quality.

I had a friend who was hospitalized for 7 days for a double hernia operation. Total cost: $7,000.

In the US this would have cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.

When complications happened after the operation, he had to go to the social hospital for 20 days because he was out of money. He reported that the care was excellent. Total cost: $1600.

Almost every nation in the world has socialized medicine!

I'm going to repeat this: Almost every nation in the world has socialized medicine.

Even Panama.

Here, you can go to a social clinic for $5.

Everyone is thrilled with socialized medicine n Panama. The docs, venders, hospitals and, most of all, the patients!

ALL doctors work first for the social system and they get paid about $60,000 a year for it. ALL docs work in the morning for the social system then in the afternoon they work in their private clinics or the private hospitals. Most make about $40,000 to $50,000 annually from their private work. This combined annual wage is HUGE in Panama and the docs are thrilled with the money and the system.

You can call a doc on their cell phone and they ANSWER. They will make a house call if you are stranded. If they make a mistake...don't fool yourself, all docs make mistakes...they admit it and fix it at no charge!

One of my buddies had a cataract operation in Panama City go bad. The doc admitted his mistake, paid for the flight to PC, a driver picked him up and drove him around for 3 days, the hotel was paid for and, of course, all the medical work was at no charge.

Try that in the US...

All this from a lowly 3rd World Nation.

What and the hell is going on in the US?

You can go to Cuba, Thailand, France, Canada, Brazil, Costa Rica...and the list goes on and on...and get excellent health care for a pittance compared to the US.

Because health care needs increase with age, we knew we couldn't retire in the US unless we had health insurance paid for by others.

No one stepped up to pay our health insurance so off we went to a country where we could handle the cost of health care.

Granted, there are many more reasons to be in Panama but the low cost of health care is a big one.

I am so grateful that something encouraged us to live in this remarkable country.

Even though Noriega has returned...more on this later.

An Incredible Day

I am sitting in gym shorts on this perfect afternoon...no shoes, socks, sandals or shirt. A mild breeze, 70 degree temperature and a partly cloudy sky.

I've just returned from the beach. A short trip to mainly introduce one of our dogs to the beach.

I started the day eating breakfast with friends. I got a call from another friend who asked to go along to the beach with me. This kind of freedom comes from being retired.

So off to the beach we go with the dog, Romeo.

The traffic was light because this is a major Panamanian holiday, Mother's Day. This is a matriarchal society, so mom is king...ah, so to speak.

As we descended in altitude on the way, the temperature went up. We kept the windows open for the dog and us. The heat and humidity was great.

The beach wasn't very crowded. The only downer was the dog who didn't like the beach. Go figure! Our other dog loves the beach.

When I got home, I continued my day off. No studying Spanish, no practicing guitar.

I settled in for a long read of my excellent novel.

Ah, so pleasant.

I lite up the christmas tree and reveled in the Spirit of Christmas confused with the juxtaposition of the tropicals...no snow and other winter images.

Then I got a call from my daughter. We discussed Christmases in the past and re-kindled the magic moments of the holiday season.

What a day!

I love it here!

And retirement isn't bad either...

Motown Music Night

Yella was playing with the Day brothers and a drummer at our favorite restaurant last night.

I was conflicted about the night. On one hand, I wanted to hear extraordinary musicians play with Yella, and on the other hand, I wanted to play too, and didn't get too...nor would I ask to be included because I am not in their league...but somehow I felt left out.

I had big expectations because of the quality of players.

The place was packed. They had been refusing reservations since Thursday because they were reserved out.

These back woods communities are starved for entertainment. And most people are retired so they have a lot of time on their hands. There have been a lot of sold out venues for music on a regular basis.

This was true about theater but not anymore. For the last 2 years, there have been 2 theater companies than presented about 12 events a year.

Too much...people got burned out...over exposed.

So the inevitable has happened with one company folding up their tent and leaving town.

This is starting to happen with music.

There was only one gringo band playing dance music last year and that was us. Now there are at least 3 bands and maybe more on the way.

The local restaurants book bands without checking with each other and they double and triple book entertainment on the same night. Small crowds are starting to happen sporadically and it is a matter of time until people get tired of too much music.

One other quirk from Panama...

One of great restaurant venues may not book music anymore because...it is too much business for them. Panamanians don't understand that gringos want to be served drinks and dinner NOW! They had many complaints about the slow service.

Panamanians take several hours to go out and eat. Slow service is just right for them. So this gringo reaction is beyond there reality.

Typically, if something is too much work, Panamanians stop doing it! So this venue may stop the music.

Back to last night...

As I was sitting there listening, I thought, "How come there is something missing in this music with it being played so well, played with mastery?" "There is no lift or energy." "I am not inspired nor thrilled and I thought I would be!"

I checked with Yella after the gig and she said it was a difficult night because she had to work so hard to drive the energy up. She felt like they only hit one or two songs right.

Amazing...extraordinary musicianship doesn't guarantee top notch music.

In spite of all this, the crowd was enjoying it and the dance floor was full about half the time.

They probably were not conscious of something missing...but I noticed that many people were complaining that the music wasn't really Motown. Problems tend to leak out laterally. With people that tend to patronize the artists, it is sometimes hard to get a good read on the strength of their appreciation.

One thing is clear, they want to dance to Motown music. It is a huge draw to this age group.

Feeling a Little Blue

I have been feeling a little blue for a week or so...

I think it started on Thanksgiving which got abbreviated because Yella played music at a restaurant in the afternoon and evening. We had to leave the party at 2 PM. I spend most of the day watching football, not all that bad, but it's not hanging out with great friends either.

Last year we had simply the greatest Thanksgiving Day celebration with our best friends in Panama. I guess I thought it would go on forever, celebrating with these folks.

But it didn't. 3 out of the 5 couples did other things. I resent them for splitting up our wonderful annual party.

Life goes on...but I don't have to like it!

Then several of our good friends have simply disappeared over the last 10 days. I have made phone calls and left messages with absolutely NO ONE calling me back. Damn!

A little side bar...

People treat cell phones (The only type most of us use.) differently in Boquete. Most people never get their voice mail set up...you have to go to your provided and have them do it for you. Most people don't look at their missed calls either. And most of them don't answer the damn thing anyway.

I do get a case of the ass about the inaccessibility of people sometimes.

All in all, I think I am feeling lonely and ignored.

Wonder what I did to create this.

While I'm on a bitch, here's another.

When someone has an issue or complaint with me, I look for some area of responsibility in the matter so I can do my part in amending the problem, keep my side of the street clean so that the relationship can recover.

I have noticed that most people don't reciprocate. What the hell! Do they think I'm solely responsible for their damn upset? I think not. They have some responsibility in the matter too. It's about time that they pony up.

Why do I have to be the one that makes amends? It's about time someone else helps too.

Oh my, that wasn't pretty.

As I said, I'm feeling a little blue...and mean...and evil to boot.

I'm also feeling left out in the music arena. Yella is playing with the Day Brothers Saturday night. They are doing Motown music! Damn! And I don't get to play. I am not good enough to play with these folks.

But I want too...

Well, I hope this downer blog helps me recover some equilibrium.

Or maybe I have to sit in this and stew in it.

(Note: I re-read this today, Friday, and I was going to pull it off the blog because it was all bitching. But I didn't because I am committed to representing my time here authentically and this is what came up. The good, bad and THE UGLY! Just so you know...I'm back! Feeling good, connected and satisfied. )